Michael in Turkey

2007-07-04T08:17:00.000-07:00

As the sun sets on me and the Black Sea, so the sun sets on this blog. I fly home tomorrow, after 11 months in Turkey. Despite some difficulties and worries, I'm glad to have had the opportunities I've had. I want to thank the US Fulbright commission, Averill Park High School, and ÖDTU Lise, but most importantly I want to thank my wife Silvia and my children Mara, Elli Sol and Silas Miguel for agreeing to accompany me on this learning adventure.

2007-07-04T08:12:00.000-07:00

This is part of Amasra (called by The Lonely Planet Guide "surely the prettiest small town on the Black Sea coast). I spent two nights here, relaxing, mentally preparing for my return to the US, and still trying to practice my Turkish.

2007-07-04T08:07:00.000-07:00

On my second night in Amasra, I walked by a wedding reception on the bay. It was a lovely night, and it reminded me how much I miss my wife and children.

2007-07-04T08:01:00.000-07:00

The view from my "pension" (room rented in a private residence - usually cheaper than a hotel). Behind me is the larger of the two bays of Amasra. In the background is a Turkish coast guard boat, and in the foreground are fishing boats. After my own fish dinner each night, I walked out to the end of the long jetty to the left.

2007-07-04T07:56:00.000-07:00

Here I am standing on the bridge to one of the two islands that make up the town. The 600 year-old walls of the kale (citadel) are still holding up nicely. Notice that even the Black Sea is crystal clear here.

2007-07-04T07:51:00.000-07:00

Well, I'm all ready to return to the US. Here I am with my belongings, and with my good friend Kenan.

2007-07-04T07:46:00.000-07:00

Another great dolmus.

2007-07-04T07:39:00.000-07:00

I went to the cıty of Safranbolu, which is known for it's wooden houses (it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site). This is a very quaint city, and while touristy (but the tourists were all Turks, which gave it a different feel), it tries to maintain its history. In some ways, it was like colonial Williamsburg, except that people still actually live in the entire city/museum.

2007-07-04T07:33:00.000-07:00

Here is my room inside one of the wooden homes. The low couch-like furniture is a very old style (I've seen many in museums), and though very stiff, they are quite comfortable to relax on. This one ran the length of the room and was as wide as a double bed.

2007-07-04T07:28:00.000-07:00

While they look like toy houses, these are examples of the wooden houses making up the city.

2007-07-04T07:17:00.000-07:00

Another self-portrait, in downtown Safranbolu. I was here on a Saturday and Sunday, so the bazaar was in full swing.

2007-06-28T09:27:00.000-07:00

I took another trip to Gordion, to see King Midas´s tomb. I actually first went to Pilotli - only 3.50 US dollars for an hour bus ride - and then on to Gordion. Midas, as you recall, was very greedy and wished that everything he touched turned to gold. Well, he got his wish, but then even his food and daughter turned to gold. He asked the gods to take his wish back, and they pitied him and told him to swim in a local river. Supposedly the sand along the river once contained gold - Midas´s gold.
Anyway, there is some question if this is THE Midas, since many kings of Gordion took the same name - maybe this is only his son or something. The tomb is entirely man-made. There are about 100 of these in the area, but this is by far the largest. They put Midas in a tomb, and then began piling dirt on him. And piled. And piled. It is amazing to think how much effort this must have taken 2500 years ago or so. Around 60 years ago some American archeologists tunneled straight into the burial mound and found the tomb. The tunnel has been reinforced, and trees added. It still boggles my mind that they created this hill on flat desert-like ground.

2007-06-28T09:22:00.000-07:00

This is the tunnel that extends to the very center of the mound, at ground level. Because I have been taking most of my trips during the week, I have most of these historical sites to myself. At the end of this was the tomb, which is a room-sized wooden structure made of mamouth logs. It is considered the oldest existing wooden structure in the world.

2007-06-28T09:15:00.000-07:00

Here I am with another self-portrait at the Gordion ruins. To get to Gordion I had to take a taxi about 12 miles - and the driver picked up an old man and his two large feed bags despite my objections. Then we turned off the main road onto a rutted dirt road - and then through a gully and onto a tractor path and through fields to a hidden gypsy tent camp. They work in the fields - basically migrant workers.
Gordion is also known for the Gordion knot. Supposedly whoever could untie it would rule all of Asia. Alexander the Great came through and conquored Gordion but could not untie the knot. Instead he took out his sword and cut it. Well he did conquor most of Asia but he died at 33. Supposedly this was due to his not separating the Gordion knot properly.

2007-06-28T09:11:00.000-07:00

No - it is not what you think. Some sort of oiled wrestling is the national sport here. This is the painted picture on a kebab shop about 1/2 mile up the street from me.

2007-06-28T09:07:00.000-07:00

This is from the high school graduation held in the school gymnasium. Each teacher is called up to hand out two or three diplomas. As soon as we hand out the diplomas- complete with Turkish kiss on both sides of the face - we pose for a picture with each student.

2007-06-28T09:03:00.000-07:00

I have been saying goodbye to various people. This is the shopkeeper where I bought most of my hardware items. He spoke no English but it is amazing how you can mime what you need.

2007-06-25T01:15:00.000-07:00

If the traffic isn't bad enough, sometimes you get stuck behind a farmer transporting his cow in the back of his pick-up. It was one of those disaster-waiting-to-happen situations.

2007-06-25T01:14:00.000-07:00

Dinner at some acquaintances in Ulus.

2007-06-25T01:10:00.000-07:00

Another trip I went on was to Amasya, which was one of the most beautiful places I visited in Turkey. The small city is set in a steep valley, with a river running through the center. Many of the homes are built right over the river, and there was a long walkway along one side. The week I visited, there was a week-long art show featuring about 50 booths/displays along this walkway. Cut into the rock walls over the city are several massive tombs, and overlooking the entire city is an old castle perched on a tall peak. I enjoyed a very relaxing stay here, and would want to visit again.

2007-06-25T01:07:00.000-07:00

I hiked three or so miles on a small, windy road that was surrounded by fruit groves on one side, and steep rocks on the other. This lone tomb was carved here at road level. You could walk around the tomb (it was set back as deep as it was wide), but I couldn't climb up to the "window" to see what was inside.

2007-06-25T01:04:00.000-07:00

Here is a good picture of the tombs. The stonework is not the castle, but just an observation platform and access to the tombs. The castle is further up out of sight. You can also see some of the renovation being done on the houses here.

Whoa, I'm sideways! Oh well. If you tilt your head, you'll see some of the tombs behind me.

2007-06-25T01:01:00.000-07:00

This was my hotel, the one flying the Turkish flag. It was in one of the reconditioned wooden homes that make this city so beautiful. My room consisted of the 7-9th windows from the left, on the first floor. The rocks behind are too steep to climb, so you approach the castle from the back side.

2007-06-25T00:58:00.000-07:00

A community changing room (the only one?) near the bazaar. The car with the flat tire seemed to be a permanent fixture.

2007-06-25T00:55:00.000-07:00

Doing some shopping in the bazaar. This one is not entirely covered, but there are so many hanging items it makes you feel like you're indoors. I loved the bazaars - where else can you buy cheap goods with dust and bird droppings on them? I became quite the savy shopper here.

2007-06-25T00:50:00.000-07:00

This octagonal building was a training school for Imam's (mosque leaders). Though the guidebook says it's closed to the public, I was invited in and toured the ınner courtyard. I saw about 40 teens studying the Koran (they spend about 3 years memorizing it by "chanting" it aloud, often accompanied by a rocking motion). Most were as interested in me as I was of them, and we talked through our mutual broken Turkish/English. I spent about 20 minutes in there, and even had my picture taken with some of them. Since there is a fear of the radical/conservative religious in Ankara, some of my colleagues disapproved of my going there.

2007-06-25T00:47:00.000-07:00

There's always time for a hamam (Turkish bath). These guys had their way with me (but where the little boy came from, I haven't a clue). The hamam dated from the 1400's.

2007-06-25T00:44:00.000-07:00

The castle overlooking the city was quite a climb (on a hot day). The views were spectacular, and a little scary (they're not much for guard rails or safety - I could have tumbled all the way down to the city).

2007-06-25T00:41:00.000-07:00

At night there were small dances and musicians along the boardwalk (mostly school children). You can see the tombs lit up in the background.

2007-06-24T23:55:00.000-07:00

The following are from one of my few "tour" trips (with a guide, etc.). I went to the Cappadocia region, where past inhabitants (and even current ones) carved homes and Christian churches into the creamy volcanic rock. We visited, among other places, the Goreme Open Air Museum (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Kaymakli underground city (a small cave entrance leads to eight levels, including space for their animals, so they could "hide out" if attacked). The above picture is from a great salt lake (yes, that's salt, not sand) we passed on the wa. I am standing ON the lake, and I could dig down an inch and water would seep through.

2007-06-24T23:52:00.000-07:00

I finally got to see a real camel (though this was for the tourists, judging how it turned its head, it was also camera shy).

2007-06-24T23:48:00.000-07:00

We were able to scramble up into some of the "homes."

2007-06-24T23:46:00.000-07:00

I believe this church is in a town called Sinassos. That's our tour guide to the left.

2007-06-24T23:45:00.000-07:00

I got fairly good at taking my own picture (people would help, but after awhile I felt I was bothering them too much).

2007-06-24T23:40:00.000-07:00

While the Cappadocia region is dry, there is an INCREDIBLE 16 kilometer valley (Ihlara Valley) that contains a peaceful stream, and hundreds of carved rooms and dozens of churches. We walked a short bit of it. It's like an oasis in the desert.

2007-06-24T23:38:00.000-07:00

Here I am in one of the many carved-out churches. The hole in front of me was a burial plot.

2007-06-24T23:35:00.000-07:00

We had dinner in a rather new restaurant that was carved completely underground. The man in the center is playing music for us.

2007-06-24T23:27:00.000-07:00

Here I am in front of part of a village that was inhabited up through the 1950's, until cave-ins forced people to move out (notice the fence to keep people out).

2007-06-13T03:04:00.000-07:00

After our stay in Antalya, nine Fulbrighters chartered a blue cruise sailboat, from Fehtiye to Marmaris. The name comes from the blueness of the water. We were to spend four nights and five days on this boat

2007-06-13T03:00:00.000-07:00

Before embarking, we had to order groceries. And while they delivered, one of us had to go and pay for them. Alice, who was always game for something new, tries out the delivery cart.

2007-06-13T02:59:00.000-07:00

Here is our portage the first night. Where it is exactly, I can't tell you. That's part of the beauty of sailing, though, just wander where you want, and stop when you feel like it.

2007-06-13T02:56:00.000-07:00

I'm such a landlubber (but I only got seasick once). The crew consisted of a captain, a cook and one other crewperson, a seventeen year-old boy who was on his first trıp - he got very sick, to the amusement of all.

2007-06-13T02:55:00.000-07:00

Clear sailing ahead!

2007-06-13T02:51:00.000-07:00

Always the student, I managed to get in some good reading (but didn't ignore the scenery). Some of us took a little excursion boat inland where the sailboat couldn't go. We encountered massive winds and waves on the way back, making the return anything but peaceful.

2007-06-13T02:49:00.000-07:00

Still reading... Actually, I read as much as I could find this year (and there wasn't a great selection). The school librarian keeps track, and the school awarded me 2nd place for most books checked out (132). Darn that Turkish language teacher who beat me out for first.

2007-06-13T02:48:00.000-07:00

We stopped a few times to look at ruins. I used to think you had to go to Greece to see ruins like this.

2007-06-13T02:46:00.000-07:00

Atop a fortress. The bay silted up over the past 1000 years or so (behind me), helping lead to thye demise of the city.

2007-06-13T02:45:00.000-07:00

These tombs are each about 20-30 feet tall.

2007-06-13T02:41:00.000-07:00

When you get too hot, just jump overboard.

2007-06-13T02:38:00.000-07:00

The water was so clear - like nothing I've ever seen. It seemed more salty (and bouyant) than the Atlantic too.

2007-06-13T02:36:00.000-07:00

It's amazing what a good cook can do in a small galley. The food was great, especially after a day of lounging and swimming.

2007-06-13T02:34:00.000-07:00

Same cave, just a little different direction. Not bad, eh?

2007-06-13T02:33:00.000-07:00

We stopped along a steep coast for lunch, so I scrambled up into an old cave.

2007-06-13T02:29:00.000-07:00

One of the more interesting aspects of the trip was the occasional presence of floating "Good Humor Men", complete with a placard with pictures and prices if you didn't speak Turkish. While it was convenient, the prices were understandably high.

2007-06-13T02:28:00.000-07:00

After five days, we arrive at our final port of call, Marmaris.

2007-06-13T02:24:00.000-07:00

Everyone survives the trip! Actually, everyone enjoyed themselves immensely.

2007-06-06T00:54:00.000-07:00

ARRRR, matey! Our Fulbright retreat was held over four days outside of Antalya (along the Mediterranean coast). We stayed at the Pirates Cove Resort, about thirty of us, along with 200 vacationing Russians. This pirate was sort of an official greeter for the resort, and though you can't see it, he really does have a peg leg (the parrot is real, too).

2007-06-06T00:50:00.000-07:00

No, not another pirate, though some Turks may think so. I'm with Ross Wilson, or should I say Ambassador Wilson, the US Ambassador to Turkey. He attended our Fulbright event, and seemed to be a rather decent person.

2007-06-05T23:53:00.000-07:00

Not much more peaceful than the Mediterranean and nothing to do.

2007-06-05T23:48:00.000-07:00

Here I am at Phaselis, about 4 kilometers from the resort. I copied the following from Wikipedia...

"The town was set up by the Rhodians in 700 BC. Because of it's location on an isthmus separating two harbours, It had been the most important harbor city of the western Lycia and an important centre of commerce between Greece, Asia, Egypt, and Phoenicia, although it did not belong to the confederation of Lycian cities. The city was captured by Persians after they conquered Asia minor, and later captured by Alexander the Great. After the death of Alexander, the city remained in Egyptian hands from 209 B.C. to 197 B.C., under the dynasty of Ptolomaios, and with the conclusion of the Apamea treaty, was handed over to the Kingdom of Rhodes, together with the other cities of Lycia..."

2007-06-05T23:44:00.000-07:00

Here's a picture of the beach front at the resort. We stayed four days, including buffets and open bar the entire time.

2007-06-05T23:41:00.000-07:00

On the last night, we had a lamb roast. This man had just finished pulling a lamb out of the pit (much like a well) with the long pole, and is cleaning it off. I was too late to take a picture with the lamb (but not too late to eat some, and it sure tasted wonderful).

2007-06-05T23:35:00.000-07:00

Driving from Antalya, looking down on the Mediteranean in the distance, I counldn't figure out what all the white was (sand?). Then we drove down lower. These are all greenhouses (but with white plastic) for tomatoes. LOTS of tomatoes.

2007-06-05T23:32:00.000-07:00

Here it is, our oven for the year. No wonder I lost weight.

2007-05-21T03:03:00.000-07:00

Silas Miguel, Elli Sol and Mara waiting at the airport. They have grown so much and in so many ways here in Turkey, but are ready to return home to the USA. I'm going to miss them so much!

2007-05-21T03:01:00.000-07:00

We had to leave at 6 a.m. for a ride to the airport (as I post this, I can say that everyone made it back safely). Mara's photo skills continue to impress me.

2007-05-21T02:59:00.000-07:00

One last time together before Turkish Airlines takes to the skies.

2007-05-21T02:56:00.000-07:00

Silas Miguel and his dog are sad to be leaving, but they both know that many more adventures await them. I'll see you in two months, Silas.

2007-05-17T05:48:00.000-07:00

On the last night, I let the children eat dinner in the living room, in front of the television (but don't tell Mama).

2007-05-17T05:43:00.000-07:00

Another celebration at the school. They're nice, but too often on Saturdays.

2007-05-17T05:41:00.000-07:00

Another picture?

2007-05-17T05:38:00.000-07:00

Mara waving to Doğukan, who presented these pants as a going away present (and who is that little girl in the background?).

2007-05-17T05:35:00.000-07:00

Elli Sol showing off the beautiful dress made for her by Gloria Teyze.

2007-05-17T05:32:00.000-07:00

Here we are celebrating my birthday in Turkey (can't you tell from my special birthday crown).

2007-05-17T05:28:00.000-07:00

The closest the children came to a camel. Faster, Elli Sol!

2007-05-17T05:26:00.000-07:00

Silas on top of the world (actually, at the top of Atakule, a needle-like tower which looks over Ankara in the background).

2007-05-17T05:24:00.000-07:00

At a park in front of Atakule (the top slowly revolves).

2007-05-14T00:42:00.000-07:00

Here we are in front of one of the prettier mosques in Ankara. The interior was filled with wonderful blue tiles.

2007-05-14T00:37:00.000-07:00

Before going into the mosque, you must remove your shoes. Also, women have to wear headscarves. Silvia didn't have one, so she made do with a skirt she had (nice picture, Mara).

2007-05-14T00:34:00.000-07:00

The Turkish are known for their chaotic driving. Maybe it has something to do with the cars they start on?

2007-05-14T00:32:00.000-07:00

Can anyone be more beautiful?

2007-05-14T00:29:00.000-07:00

The "gang" just hanging out on a beautiful spring day.

2007-05-14T00:25:00.000-07:00

Silas and Elli Sol showing support for their favorite political party (actually, someone on the street had just handed them the balloon). The party on the balloon wants to keep Kurds from taking possession of northern Iraq.

2007-05-14T00:22:00.000-07:00

Hungry, anyone? Simit are wonderful - somewhat bagel-like, covered with sesame seeds, and sold throughout Turkey from carts like this. Some vendors stack them on boards, which they carry on their head (sans hands), and place on a tripod when you ask for one. Notice the "4 for one lira" sign. As the day goes on, the price changes to 5 for a lira, etc.

2007-05-01T07:04:00.000-07:00

April 23 is National Children's Day. We went to a musical celebration held in the gymnasium at ODTU. The children dressed up for the occasion.

2007-05-01T06:58:00.000-07:00

Time for some SWIMMING (or is that dancing, Silas?). It's not warm enough to swim outside yet, so we go inside for some fun!

2007-05-01T06:49:00.000-07:00

Silas Miguel and Elli Sol standing next to the Equestrian statue of Ataturk, celebrating Turkey's fight for independence.

2007-05-01T06:41:00.000-07:00

Another holiday, another day to celebrate all that is Turkey.

2007-04-11T00:25:00.000-07:00

We took a four day trip to Canakkale, and stayed with the family of Dr. Sezar Mural, who hosted Silvia briefly in Canakkale 8 years ago (while pregnant with Mara - so it was a bit of a homecoming for Mara too). In the picture, we are in nearby TROY (no, not Troy, New York, THE TROY). This is a model of the Trojan Horse at the site, and the one used in the recent movie was sent to Canakkale too. Troy is actually 9 cities, built one on top of another, and quite small (think of it as a fortress, in some respects). The first was buılt around 3000BC!

2007-04-11T00:24:00.000-07:00

Mara among some of the outer defense walls of Troy.

2007-04-11T00:20:00.000-07:00

Future actors (this is part of a 6000 spectator ampitheater). No sign of Brad Pitt.

2007-04-11T00:17:00.000-07:00

Mara getting her hair braided by the Mural family's househelper, Nurtan teyze.

2007-04-11T00:13:00.000-07:00

The castle across the Dardanelles was built in 1492 by Mehmet the Conquorer (along with matching castle on this side). We visited it, and it was basically deserted, so we could explore it as we wished. There were steep open stairs that led right to the top lip - very frightening.

2007-04-11T00:07:00.000-07:00

Here is the view from the porch (Sezar bey and Sukran hannim's home), overlooking the Dardanelles Strait (what a fabulous place and view). The large cargo ships passed continuously, coming from the Mediterranean to the Aegean Sea and up the strait (called the Hellespont in ancient times) to the Sea of Marmara, through the Bosphorus at Istanbul, and continuing into the Black Sea. Aahh, a sailor's life for me.

2007-04-11T00:02:00.000-07:00

Hanging out with Sezar. You can't tell from the picture, but I've really gone gray here.

2007-04-10T23:59:00.000-07:00

Elli Sol and Silas Miguel in a WWI bunker (see the next picture for some details).

2007-04-10T23:54:00.000-07:00

Evening looking over the Dardanelles. The Canakkale Martyrs Memorial to the left (at the southern tip of the peninsula) commemorates the Turkish soldiers who fought and died at Gallipoli (look it up if you don't know - a very interesting and important campaign in WWI). Where the peninsula ends, the Aegean sea starts. There is a HUGE mountain-side sign that one can see from passing ships and across the Dardannelles, which translates as "Stop wayfarer! Unknowst to you this ground you come and tread on is where an epoch lies; bend down and lend your ear for this silent mound is the place where the heart of a nation sighs."

2007-04-10T23:50:00.000-07:00

Mara and Silas Miguel along the water (though hard to read, the boat is registered in Istanbul). Notice Silas's ever present steering wheel. And the look on their faces - they didn't want to stand next to each other at that moment.

2007-04-10T23:46:00.000-07:00

On the ferry ride across the Dardanelles, Elli Sol decided to find out how much less they charge for a horse and cart than for the tractor trailor.

2007-04-10T23:43:00.000-07:00

The chidren had time for a swim. Silas Miguel went in the deep end without any floatation devices for the first time!