Michael in Turkey

I took another trip to Gordion, to see King Midas´s tomb. I actually first went to Pilotli - only 3.50 US dollars for an hour bus ride - and then on to Gordion. Midas, as you recall, was very greedy and wished that everything he touched turned to gold. Well, he got his wish, but then even his food and daughter turned to gold. He asked the gods to take his wish back, and they pitied him and told him to swim in a local river. Supposedly the sand along the river once contained gold - Midas´s gold.
Anyway, there is some question if this is THE Midas, since many kings of Gordion took the same name - maybe this is only his son or something. The tomb is entirely man-made. There are about 100 of these in the area, but this is by far the largest. They put Midas in a tomb, and then began piling dirt on him. And piled. And piled. It is amazing to think how much effort this must have taken 2500 years ago or so. Around 60 years ago some American archeologists tunneled straight into the burial mound and found the tomb. The tunnel has been reinforced, and trees added. It still boggles my mind that they created this hill on flat desert-like ground.

Here I am with another self-portrait at the Gordion ruins. To get to Gordion I had to take a taxi about 12 miles - and the driver picked up an old man and his two large feed bags despite my objections. Then we turned off the main road onto a rutted dirt road - and then through a gully and onto a tractor path and through fields to a hidden gypsy tent camp. They work in the fields - basically migrant workers.
Gordion is also known for the Gordion knot. Supposedly whoever could untie it would rule all of Asia. Alexander the Great came through and conquored Gordion but could not untie the knot. Instead he took out his sword and cut it. Well he did conquor most of Asia but he died at 33. Supposedly this was due to his not separating the Gordion knot properly.

If the traffic isn't bad enough, sometimes you get stuck behind a farmer transporting his cow in the back of his pick-up. It was one of those disaster-waiting-to-happen situations.

Dinner at some acquaintances in Ulus.

Another trip I went on was to Amasya, which was one of the most beautiful places I visited in Turkey. The small city is set in a steep valley, with a river running through the center. Many of the homes are built right over the river, and there was a long walkway along one side. The week I visited, there was a week-long art show featuring about 50 booths/displays along this walkway. Cut into the rock walls over the city are several massive tombs, and overlooking the entire city is an old castle perched on a tall peak. I enjoyed a very relaxing stay here, and would want to visit again.

I hiked three or so miles on a small, windy road that was surrounded by fruit groves on one side, and steep rocks on the other. This lone tomb was carved here at road level. You could walk around the tomb (it was set back as deep as it was wide), but I couldn't climb up to the "window" to see what was inside.

Here is a good picture of the tombs. The stonework is not the castle, but just an observation platform and access to the tombs. The castle is further up out of sight. You can also see some of the renovation being done on the houses here.

A community changing room (the only one?) near the bazaar. The car with the flat tire seemed to be a permanent fixture.

This octagonal building was a training school for Imam's (mosque leaders). Though the guidebook says it's closed to the public, I was invited in and toured the ınner courtyard. I saw about 40 teens studying the Koran (they spend about 3 years memorizing it by "chanting" it aloud, often accompanied by a rocking motion). Most were as interested in me as I was of them, and we talked through our mutual broken Turkish/English. I spent about 20 minutes in there, and even had my picture taken with some of them. Since there is a fear of the radical/conservative religious in Ankara, some of my colleagues disapproved of my going there.

There's always time for a hamam (Turkish bath). These guys had their way with me (but where the little boy came from, I haven't a clue). The hamam dated from the 1400's.

The castle overlooking the city was quite a climb (on a hot day). The views were spectacular, and a little scary (they're not much for guard rails or safety - I could have tumbled all the way down to the city).

At night there were small dances and musicians along the boardwalk (mostly school children). You can see the tombs lit up in the background.

The following are from one of my few "tour" trips (with a guide, etc.). I went to the Cappadocia region, where past inhabitants (and even current ones) carved homes and Christian churches into the creamy volcanic rock. We visited, among other places, the Goreme Open Air Museum (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Kaymakli underground city (a small cave entrance leads to eight levels, including space for their animals, so they could "hide out" if attacked). The above picture is from a great salt lake (yes, that's salt, not sand) we passed on the wa. I am standing ON the lake, and I could dig down an inch and water would seep through.

I believe this church is in a town called Sinassos. That's our tour guide to the left.

I got fairly good at taking my own picture (people would help, but after awhile I felt I was bothering them too much).

While the Cappadocia region is dry, there is an INCREDIBLE 16 kilometer valley (Ihlara Valley) that contains a peaceful stream, and hundreds of carved rooms and dozens of churches. We walked a short bit of it. It's like an oasis in the desert.

We had dinner in a rather new restaurant that was carved completely underground. The man in the center is playing music for us.

Here I am in front of part of a village that was inhabited up through the 1950's, until cave-ins forced people to move out (notice the fence to keep people out).

After our stay in Antalya, nine Fulbrighters chartered a blue cruise sailboat, from Fehtiye to Marmaris. The name comes from the blueness of the water. We were to spend four nights and five days on this boat

Before embarking, we had to order groceries. And while they delivered, one of us had to go and pay for them. Alice, who was always game for something new, tries out the delivery cart.

Always the student, I managed to get in some good reading (but didn't ignore the scenery). Some of us took a little excursion boat inland where the sailboat couldn't go. We encountered massive winds and waves on the way back, making the return anything but peaceful.

Still reading... Actually, I read as much as I could find this year (and there wasn't a great selection). The school librarian keeps track, and the school awarded me 2nd place for most books checked out (132). Darn that Turkish language teacher who beat me out for first.

We stopped a few times to look at ruins. I used to think you had to go to Greece to see ruins like this.

Atop a fortress. The bay silted up over the past 1000 years or so (behind me), helping lead to thye demise of the city.

The water was so clear - like nothing I've ever seen. It seemed more salty (and bouyant) than the Atlantic too.

It's amazing what a good cook can do in a small galley. The food was great, especially after a day of lounging and swimming.

Same cave, just a little different direction. Not bad, eh?

One of the more interesting aspects of the trip was the occasional presence of floating "Good Humor Men", complete with a placard with pictures and prices if you didn't speak Turkish. While it was convenient, the prices were understandably high.

No, not another pirate, though some Turks may think so. I'm with Ross Wilson, or should I say Ambassador Wilson, the US Ambassador to Turkey. He attended our Fulbright event, and seemed to be a rather decent person.

Here I am at Phaselis, about 4 kilometers from the resort. I copied the following from Wikipedia...