Sunday, August 13, 2006

 
Sokullu Mehmet Cadde, the street which I have walked several times daily, and which extends farther than I care to walk, climbs at a 20 to 30 degree angle. I feel as though I'm prepping to climb the Adirondack 46 again. The heat hasn't let up either, and fans are rare, and airconditioning seems to be for offices only.

I have been trying Turkish dishes. Most of the time I point to the item on a list, and take a chance. My foray into a Kebab house ended up with a plate of thick, round bread (too much to eat, by itself) called pide, with some spicy veal kabob, and a side of peppers and tomatoes. Most meals come with a tomato, cucumber and/or bean and light oil salad. In the U.S., I refrain from eating tomatoes unless they're part of a sauce, but I have had more WHOLE tomatoes in the previous week than I've had in my 42 years. The oils they use blunt the taste and make them pleasant, especially in this heat.

Last night I tried Manti, which resembled large meat filled tortellini, with a tiny bit of a sweet oily sauce. Two women came into the small restaurant to let me know they had made the manti in their home down the street. I was watched (one even pulled up a chair) by the owner, his son, a friend, and the two women as I ate. I think we're just far enough out of the center of Ankara to be an anomoly. The manti was great, the prices are fairly inexpensive, and the father and son spoke some English, so I will bring Silvia and the children some time.

After walking up Sokullu for my meal of manti, it was pleasant to walk down the street in the cooler evening air. Already I am comfortable in my neighborhood. As I passed a grocery store near my apartment, I saw the local garbabe men picking up trash. They had spilled some, and a man was sweeping up the spill. What struck me most was that the broom was only about 2 feet high, as if the stick had been pulled out and only the bristles remain. I see these sold all over, and don't understand, other than due to space, one would care to sweep bent over this way (of course, in Albany, you're lucky if they get all the bags of garbage in the truck).

I realize I am spending more time describing differences between Turkey and the U.S., rather than similarities. This is mostly due to what I bring to my attention. There are obvious similarities between people, and it is the change in practices that I notice most. I am also limited in describing the true essence of the people because of my limited communication skills (it is improving, but I rarely get beyond hello, what is your name, thank you, etc.). What I see so far are people who are open, polite and caring, and they are far more important than all the little details I keep pointing out.

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